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I looked at Japanese pearl divers, and some of the first industrial workers, and also at Russian clothing, Chinese clothing, and the work of Leni Riefenstahl, and Matthew Barney, and Hitchcock. The challenge, she says, was to design clothes that didnt look fake, that seemed horrifying plausible, that said, This is the new normal. But not every reference was so rarefied: The long-flowing vest over a turtleneck and pants that the severe Aunt Lydia wears were in part an homage to Maude, Bea Arthurs 1970s TV feminist

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